As I sit, surfed out and arms aching, basking in the sun on the sugar scoop and feeling the cold easing from my body, I gaze out past s/v Akimbo at another perfect set of glassy waves peeling down the reef and say to Lyn (basking in the sun on the other side of the scoop): “It doesn’t get any better than this!”. This is the third day in a row I have said that, and it keeps getting better! As a keen surfer and sailor I am sure I share the dream vision of many to anchor one’s yacht in a nice settled anchorage position with perfect waves nearby. Ouano surf break on New Caledonia’s west coast is one of the places where this dream can come true.

At time of writing we have already had ten days of excellent surf pretty much all to ourselves (Pete, myself and a couple others). The wave reminds me of Cloud Break in Fiji, but is less intimidating with a friendlier end section, which all in all gives it a pretty mellow and safe feeling. On the larger waves you often make all three sections and there is usually a barrel on offer if you are brave enough and good enough. You can anchor the boats a bit further into the pass and wide of the waves and it is a remarkably quiet anchorage given the setting.

31 August 2015

We left Port Moselle marina at about midday, Thursday 13^th August, and began our island-hop Northward up the lagoon. That afternoon we sailed around Orphelinat and Citrons bays getting a feel for the coastline near Noumea, then out to Maitre Island where we took a mooring and went ashore on the paddle boards. It’s a pretty island with a nice looking resort and has an excellent kite-surfing location on the South Eastern side where the Noumea based kite surf schools take their students. It’s a perfect beginner kiter setup with a large shallow sand and sea grass area, on-shore in the prevailing trade winds. The wind was light when we were there but flags on the beach advertise the various schools and manufacturers.

Pretty Resort on Maitre Island

We returned to the boat and headed a short distance north to Nge Island. We took a mooring and went ashore to explore this pretty little sand island (no resort on this one). This island is fairly typical of many of the islands in the huge lagoon fringing New Caledonia. It is low-lying and surrounded by a pretty white sand beach. Off the shore is fringing coral reef or coral patches and heads mixed with a bottom of coral slate or sand, in places sand and sea grass. The islands vary in their nature protection, a few do not allow landing at all, most allow landing and have nature reserve restrictions, many allow camping and have some rudimentary facilities including toilets. One of the great things about New Cal is that it is a lot more easy-going with respect to legislation than Australia (the nanny state). People camp wherever they like on the islands, wear no helmets on bicycles etc. There are rules and they are obeyed, but there are not a million signs telling you what not to do.

We spent the night at Nge including an absolutely stunning sunset (the first of many). Next morning we set off on a meandering sail northwards, investigating Dumbea pass and various islands in the lagoon. The Western lagoon is formed by a fringing reef which is only about 3 to 4 nautical miles off the main island. This makes for very sheltered flat water sailing conditions which are an absolute pleasure. In flat water a yacht will slip along quietly and easily, even with little sail up and light winds, so sailing up and down the long length of the lagoon is really nice and easy. There is also a vast choice of good sheltered anchorages, so there is no pressure to get to a particular spot on time before sunset. In fact, much of the lagoon is 12 meters or less deep, so you could in fact anchor just about anywhere in need. That afternoon we settled down in a beautiful bay west of Ndukue island, a spot recommended by Pete from Akimbo. It is a small bay inside a rock point with small limestone overhanging cliffs and sheltered by hills. We were all alone there in a stunning setting. We took the stand-up boards ashore, finding a deep enough pathway through the pretty lilly-pad-like fringing coral (Lyn spotted a Lion fish) and walked up the hill for a lovely view of the surrounding area then enjoyed the sunset from the beach. Next morning on the high tide we paddled around the island investigating the overhangs and caves, coral, beaches and shallow waterway between Ndukue and the main island. Then it was off to St. Vincent’s pass and Tenia Island.

Daisies of the ocean

Just cm from the water surface an exquisite Lion Fish

JoliFou at beautiful Ndukue island

Ndukue island view at low tide

The best so far!

Pretty lilly-pad-like fringing

Swimming through a crack in the reef

Our First Dive at Tenia

Bruce’s very first surf in New Caledonia

We sailed past the left-hand surf break of St. Vincent’s pass, it was quite windy South Easterly trade wind with a big swell and quite wild conditions, but the 3 surfers in the water were getting some good rides. Bruce was itching to get in the water but the conditions were a bit sketchy for anchorage and leaving Lyn on the boat so we headed in to Tenia island. Tenia is one of the most beautiful islands here. It is quite a large low island in a heart shape integrated with the main barrier reef, including a hooked section of the reef that creates one of the few outer reef dive spots sheltered from the waves. On the Northern side of the island is a large sand-spit finger and yachts can anchor on the sand bottom between the spit and the reef. Shoal draft vessels such as Jolifou can get in really quite close to the island beach which is a really lovely setting. One could remain there overnight, but it can get a bit uncomfortable and rolly on the high tide and potentially dangerous if the anchor dragged, so one tends to just day-anchor there.

We spent three days at Tenia island during the day then doing a short sail to a great anchorage at Puen island for the night. Bruce took the dinghy out to St. Vincents left for his first surf. A bit of an intimidating experience as it was a long trip in the dinghy with quite strong wind and big waves, and ended up being the only surfer out there. It was nice to get the surfing mojo going tho. Akimbo arrived on the second day and Pete and Bruce had a good surf together in nicer conditions the next morning. On day 3 we went for our first scuba dive, taking the dinghy out over the reef at high tide and diving on some interesting deep bommies on the outside. This is not the main recommended dive spot at Tenia but we wanted to start somewhere tame because it had been a long time since our last dive. We saw a huge ray, a sea snake and some large fish in a nice swim-through gulley. We also did some exploring on Puen island including an absolutely magical sunset walk with a spectacular sky reflecting off the glass-like water over the shallow fringing reef.

The Shipwreck at Titanic Surf Break

Next morning it was time to head North to the allure of Ouano surf break, which Pete had assured Bruce was even better than St. Vincents. We had a look at the “Titanic” surf break on Isie pass on the way, which looked really nice (a hollow right-hander) but the locals are very protective of this break and foreigners are not welcome. We had our first surf at Ouano in fairly windy conditions but the waves were still excellent, this is my new favourite surf spot! We spent the night anchored in Ouano bay about 4 miles from the surf break and headed out the next morning for another excellent surf. Just Pete, Bruce and one other French local surfer in 4 to 6 foot perfect waves. Next day it was Bruce’s birthday (21 August) and mother nature gifted him even better surf, 4 to 6 foot, glassy conditions and just Pete and Bruce out there. We went out on Akimbo leaving Lyn on Jolifou as she wanted to prepare the birthday dinner. She was thrilled to have Perret ask her if she wanted to have a lift to La Foa for some much-needed provisions. In the afternoon Bruce had his first kite-surf in the anchorage area and we ended the day with a beautiful birthday dinner with Pete, Ness and new friends Patrice and Perret from s/v Bonte. Patrice and Perret are pretty much permanent residents of Ouano bay on their majestic schooner and Pete and Ness had befriended them on previous trips. Bonte is a really striking and unusual boat built by Patrice over 40 years ago: pirate-ship like with huge aft state-room and elegant figure-head, and this may be the only yacht in the world with a microlight airplane aboard!  As you would expect, Patrice and Perret are unusual and extremely interesting people.

With a bit of a hangover, smaller surf, and expecting weekend crowds we took a break from the surfing on Saturday 22^nd and had a relaxing day exploring a little island near the reef and a late afternoon walk up the hill overlooking the Oauno anchorage. By Sunday the surf was firing again, glassy 6 foot perfection and the Aussie yachties (Pete, Bruce and Slade from Eos 2) had an epic early morning session to themselves before a few locals arrived on their boats. The locals generally have trailer-able tinnies or speed boats that they drive up from Noumea, launch at the boat ramp in Ouano bay and bring out to the surf break at the pass. Fortunately for us, they don’t get out very early. They usually spend the whole day out there and there is a bit of a carnival atmosphere. Everyone was very friendly and there was never much more than 15 surfing at a time, so still plenty of waves for the yachties in our afternoon session. We are however very respectful of the locals and mindful that they only have the weekend whereas during the week we can have it to ourselves, so we keep a low and mellow profile out there.

Another perfect wave

Officially a cruising boat

The grace of the beautiful sea snake

This little chap reminded me of my little prince

The top of the hill looking down at the boats anchored

Another great paddle around the bay

Akimbo sun-downers, Bonte, EOS 2, Insatiable 2 and JoliFou

The amazing Ship Bonte with her plane on the back

The effects of the prevailing wind.

On Monday the waves were a touch smaller but we still had an excellent morning session again. By midday the South easterly wind had picked up a bit and we launched Bruce’s 12 square meter kite off the back of the boat for the first time ever. This is something Bruce has wanted to do for some time, but can be quite tricky to do. He pumped the kite up half in the water on the sugar scoop, connected the lines and let the kite float downwind letting out the lines slowly. The kite tried to mess itself up a couple times on the way out but eventually launched nicely and Bruce had a fantastic time kiting/surfing the waves. This is a perfect setup for surfing waves with the kite as the South Easterly trade wind is a perfect cross-offshore angle on the waves, especially for a goofy footer like Bruce. That night we had apertifs and drinks on Bonte and got to do the tour of this amazing boat. It is pretty huge compared to our boat and just so solid. Patrice has made a lot of very clever things on the boat over the years, including a gimballing bed and of course the aft platform for the microlight. They can launch and attach the wings of the microlight from the boat (it is effectively a sea-plane with a floating hull). Perret also has an amazing on-board garden, made using boxes and pots.

5 September 2015

The surf had gone down by Tuesday and Lyn paddled the standup board over to a pretty lagoon island (Konduyo) while Bruce went in the dinghy with the other board. We paddled around this perfect little island exploring the reef and then enjoyed skinny-dipping on our own private island for the rest of the day. Next day we took Joilifou out to have a look at Isie pass and the big ship-wreck out there, then, for a change of scenery we went in behind Lebris island to a pretty little bay anchorage where we had lunch. At the same time Lyn was doing some laundry on the boat and after some initial hiccups she managed to get the washing machine working. Later in the afternoon the South Easterly was getting quite strong and we moved further into Ouarai bay to an anchorage advertised by the cruising guide as “the place to go when you need a good rest from developed trade winds”. It was indeed really well sheltered and we were lucky enough to see two small sharks (fins) as we watched the sun going down.

Next morning we motored back to Ouano anchorage as we wanted to join Perret, Pete and Ness for a trip into La Foa. Apart from provisions we were able to sign up for a Mobilis “Liberte” pay as you go sim card which has enabled us to have a working phone here as well as being able to activate internet access in one hour (unlimited data) chunks. This is now enabling us to post these blogs for the first time in a while.

When the wind is up there is only one thing to do

Another perfect sunset

Kiting the waves at Ouano

JoliFou, EOS 2 and Akimbo at the break

Bruce Surfing

Moon Setting

An early start as the moon sets and we head out to the break

The set-up at Ouano from the top of JoliFou

The next few days were a bit like groundhog day, but with a perfect surf theme. Early morning 5:30 am Bruce would awake and start getting the boat ready for leaving for the reef. By 6:00 am there would be a flotilla of four aussie yachts motoring out to the reef (Jolifou, Akimbo, Eos 2, Rhino). Lyn might rise at this stage and have a coffee and enjoy the sunrise during the trip. By about 7 the yachts were anchored off the break and the surfers headed out to the lineup (each boat only had one surfer each). Whilst the boys were surfing the girls would do any number of activities including: paddling to the nearby little island on standup or kayak, snorkeling, swimming, sunbaking, taking photographs. Somewhere around 10 or 11 the surfers would return to the boats one by one, for a coffee and croissant or toast and to warm up a bit. On one occasion Lyn paddled out on the standup with croissants and water for Bruce, now that is what I call great service! There might be a second surf session before or after lunch and at some stage around mid-afternoon the boats would sail back to the anchorage (jib only) in the South Easterly wind that had built up. There might be a late afternoon walk near the anchorage and then possibly sun-downers on one of the boats. Surf trips don’t come any better than this, I am sure.

It was almost a relief when the swell declined again and our aching arms were granted a reprieve. There was a day of an unusually strong Northerly breeze where Bruce had a wonderful kite from the anchorage out through the channel along the edge of the reef and back. Then the surf came back and it was groundhog again. Believe it or not, when you are blessed with so much good surf it is possible to become a bit jaded and take it for granted. One finds oneself sitting out in the lineup and letting a really good looking set wave pass by because the wall on it doesn’t look like it will line up perfectly on the reef. Bruce started experimenting with boards (he has 7 short-boards on the boat) and found joy in finally discovering the potential of his “5’8 Spitfire” unleashed by using the WCT fins on it in a thruster setup. Spoiled brat surfers – that is us! (I wonder what the poor surfers in Sydney are doing right now?)

Clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk, clunk; the recently installed lightning protection cable makes it’s persistent noise slapping on the inside of the mast, joining all the other annoying noises as the boat is tossed about in the chaotic waves of the Lord Howe lagoon. The rudders also clunk back and forth on the play in the bearings, the centerboard clunks in its case, the boom break creaks and bangs slightly as the force of momentum lets the rope slip a bit, dishes and glasses in the cupboard and sink clink intermittently, and of course there is the waves slapping against the sides of the hull and under the stern. Add the motion itself to the mix and sleep is not on the menu during a bad night at Lord Howe lagoon.

The most beautiful island we have visited yet, but nights like this one are the price you pay to be here on your yacht, and as much as we love it here we have also had enough of this torture, time to move on.

Farewell to beautiful Lord Howe Island

Leaving Lord Howe through North Passage.

Another perfect sunset

Another day another sundowner

It must be sun downer time…

30 August 2015

It has been a long time since the last blog entry, mostly because we didn’t have a good internet connection until now, but also I confess because we were just too busy discovering New Caledonia. Our last two days at Lord Howe Island were pleasant but with a larger South West swell at high tide we really experienced how uncomfortable the moorings here can be. We had a night of being in washing-machine like conditions, with small waves over the reef bouncing off the nearby rocks. By far the worst conditions we have ever been moored or anchored in so far, the plus side is that we will probably tolerate less severe discomfort better for this experience.

We had a night of worry about possibly being trapped in the lagoon as the large swell was causing breaking waves across the North Pass entrance, but fortunately the next morning the swell had abated a bit and we said farewell to Lord Howe. The weather window looked very good for the trip and it did not disappoint, after half a day of motor-sailing in light Northerlies the South Westerly wind arrived and we had excellent downwind sailing for the rest of the trip, varying from about 10 to 25 knots. We had the jib poled out either to leeward or windward almost the whole trip. Nice sailing and pleasant weather with the odd rain squall, but not with any major wind in them. We are disappointed to not have seen any marine life bar a few squids on deck, the odd flying fish and sea-birds including the majestic albatross.

One moment of concern was when we discovered persistent water coming into the bilge again. Not alarmingly fast, but maybe a bucket-full every hour. It seemed our previous analysis of the cause of the leak had been incorrect. After a long process of elimination and investigation we eventually discovered the true problem: The through-hull fitting for the generator cooling water exit had a leak in its seal. This is underneath the boat, but fortunately on the stern quarter where it is not constantly underwater. After removing everything from the port stern locker Bruce was able to get to it and it was clear that some water was getting in as every wave lapped up from behind. There were some moments of panic trying to think how we could seal something that was constantly wet. We have since learned that there are good products available for this, but we had to work with what we had. In the end Bruce decided to just try to completely smother the area with Sikaflex 292. He dried and cleaned the area with acetone as best as possible between waves, then quickly squirted large quantities of sika around the area, building it up a few times. This eventually did the job, which can only really be done properly next time we are out the water. To date the repair is holding well.

Arrival in New Caledonia, Bruce flying the flag

First introduction to the waves in New Caledonia, Bruce was frothing to get in!

JoliFou approaching the entrance to Noumea Harbour…Quarantine flag in place.

As seems to often happen to us, we had to slow down a lot so as to arrive on Monday, because you can’t clear into New Cal on the weekend. We sailed in through Dumbea pass at sunrise, accompanied bhy the only ship we had seen the whole trip and watching some excellent peeling rights breaking down the side of the pass. Formalities at Port Moselle Marina were a pleasure with all staff and officials very friendly and helpful. The one small hitch was Bruce having a bit of a struggle finding the immigration office despite having a good map, it is in an extremely non-obvious looking building. Lyn had over-catered for the trip mostly due to us eating very little during the rougher weather and we had heard that all fresh and even frozen food would be confiscated. Lyn’s solution was to slow roast the remaining lamb and pork, starting at 4AM in the morning on approach to Noumea. After all that the quarantine official was extremely nice and allowed us to keep all the meat, eggs, honey and cheese. He only confiscated a small amount of fresh fruit and vegies. We were lucky as we heard of other boats having all of these items confiscated by more stringent officials in the past.

We spent three nights in Noumea at the marina exploring the town and doing some small maintenance tasks on the boat. I have to say we are not over enamored with Noumea town center. It is quite dirty and bleak in places. Other areas like the Latin quarter are nicer, but still not really a place we want to spend a lot of time. Lyn did really like the fresh food market near the marina and we were also very impressed by the range of equipment and spares at the Marine Corrail yacht chandler. Nevertheless we did enjoy our three days at Port Moselle on the visitor’s finger of the marina, meeting other cruisers. One of the striking things about this marina is that there are hardly any plastic motor boats and most yachts are truly blue-water live-aboard cruisers. This is a stark contrast to Sydney and the Pittwater where marinas are full of white plastic motor boats, racing yachts and production coastal cruisers.

No plastic stink boats… just a long line of cruising boats ready for adventure.

I have dreamed of this market since we left, our access to fresh food is pretty limited now that we have left Noumea.

Enjoying a quick lunch in Noumea, Bruce was thrilled to enjoy his first Croissant…. He’s fallen off the wagon! Notice the disapproving look on Lyn’s face 🙂

We were very happy to have Jim and Ann of Insatiable 2 arrive the day after us. They are true veterans of the cruising world and we had met them previously in the Pittwater. Our friends Pete and Ness (Akimbo) arrived late in the day and we invited them all to dinner which was a very happy affair. The next night we were all on Insatiable 2 for sundowners and laughs aplenty. We are so fortunate to have these really experienced cruisers offering us advice, tips and knowledge of the area. Pete has taken us through his paper charts of the area, pointing out the good anchorages, surf spots etc. truly valuable information to get us started in this unfamiliar area.

By the end of the third day we were starting to get itchy feet, eager to get out there into the true beauty of New Caledonia and start our holiday properly. More on that coming up very soon in the next blog post.

As much as it is a wonderful adventure to discover new places, there is also a joy in re-visiting familiar places that you know and like. The familiarity allows one to be a lot more relaxed on arrival as you know the terrain, know how things work etc. Our trip back to the Pittwater had quite a few such re-visits and was the better for it.

31 October 2014

Tankers off Gladstone

We were supposed to be back in the Pittwater by today. We are a long way from there, off the coast of Gladstone and approaching the town of 1770 which will be our next stop. Time has lost relevance in our lives over this trip, which is a wonderful way to live, but reality is setting in as I need to get back for work commitments. More importantly Lyn’s parents Keith and Merle arrive today for a 3 week visit and we certainly don’t want to miss seeing them. As I write this the sun is just rising over a calm sea, reflecting off the sides of 20 tankers at anchor outside Gladstone. Lyn and Silus sleep below having done their dog-watch earlier. We are motor sailing in light North Easterly wind making good time.

The crossing from Fairey Reef to Percy Isles was fairly uneventful after the fish event (see previous blog). The wind was moderate northerly and sailing with full main and Gennaker (sometimes poled out) and some motor assistance at times. With the wind from the north we had an opportunity to see the other side of Middle Percy at Whites bay, which the Alan Lucas guide describes as “an excellent anchorage in delightful surroundings”. Well I concur absolutely and would even go so far as to say that this (in Northerly wind) is the nicest anchorage we have come across to date. The bay is framed by a couple of small islets in the north east side, white sandy beach and high dunes in the middle and beautiful rocks either side. The shelter from swell (at least when we were there) is absolute and the holding in the gently sloping sand is excellent. The water is crystal clear, none of the siltiness that spoils much of the Whitsundays and the place just has an atmosphere of beauty and safety. Middle Percy Island is now probably our favourite island, a really happy place for us for many reasons.

JoliFou in Whites Bay

Silus having Swim

Private Pool

Old Cars on Percy Isle

Pathway to the Homestead

Whites Bay

Whites Bay

Whites Bay

Road to Nowhere

Boys on the Beach

The Mexican

Our friends Pete and Sue from the schooner Argos arrived a bit later and stopped by for sun-downers. We gave them some wahoo, pleased to be able to contribute to the revolving credit of fish after being benefactors a few times. The original plan was to spend just the one night but, after an excellent sleep, on our way up the walking track to the homestead we decided that this place is too good and we had to extend at least another night. The track from Whites bay is beautiful, following a ridge ever upwards, with stunning views along the way, and especially at the top. At the homestead we were re-united with John, Ernst and Donny and met Steve and Martin. Kate was unfortunately away on the mainland recuperating from a hip operation. Silus got on much better (than our previous visit) with Bronte the Labrador and the other resident dog who were ever so keen to make acquaintance with a new dog.

We went on to have a look at Ernst’s new house. It is absolutely charming with a clever design of a fold-up deck that has one of the world’s best views down the valley to West Bay. Ernst is quite a character. In about his mid-thirties (I guess), he has lived on the island for 10 years now, helping out at the homestead, hunting goat and using his extensive handyman skills to help maintain stuff and build himself a house. He says that he dedicates his life to the island and he has never had a partner. It must be a lonely existence which I for one could not do, but he thrives on it. Back at the homestead we enjoyed a glass of the famous honey and lemon water and were able to get an internet connection for messages to the loved ones letting them know where we were up to.

View from Ernst’s Deck

Ernst’s House

Homestead Signage

The Homestead

We invited the homestead boys to a wahoo dinner on the JoliFou, if they were able to get there. Steve couldn’t make it but the others were keen. Transport of the four of them would be a quad bike and Ernst’s motorbike down the walking track (and up again in the dark) – sketchy! We had intended walking back down via an alternate route recommended by John, past the old airfield and down the valley. On the way there Silus had a complete mental moment (as he sometimes does) and took off into the bush after some goats. He usually always comes back and finds us so we continued along the track, but after some time and no sign of him we started getting concerned so turned back to look for him. For about half an hour increasingly fraught shouts of “Silus! Siiiillluuuuus!!” could be heard across the hilltops as we split up and tried to find him. No sound of him (usually you hear the barking) and him not coming to us was a big worry, visions of finding him bleeding to death from a goat horn wound creeping into the thoughts. Eventually I heard loud panting and found him in a shady part of the path further back. He was absolutely buggered, lying on his side and panting, but otherwise okay – pheeww. I ended up carrying him most of the way down the path because I was worried he might do himself some damage if those little old legs took any more strain.

We met the homestead crew on the beach for sundowners followed by dinner on JoliFou including a catamaran crew, Will and Tina, whom we had just met. The homestead boys were quite pleased to hear there was no beer and that rum would have to be the drink of choice and we had a lovely evening with a delicious wahoo meal. Later on the way back to the beach in the dinghy Donny says to me: “You know Bruce, I am 70 years old. The Penis is gone, the heart is still strong. I just love cuddles from beautiful women and my cuddles from Lyn and Tina tonight will last me a very long time.”

Ernst, Wil, Lyn, John, Martin, Donny and Tina

Spiced Gold from Will (time for a rum off!)

7 November 2014

Entrance to 1770

It was with a tinge of sadness that we departed Middle Percy the next morning, we will be back. The wind was from the North and the going good. The original plan was to stop the next day at Pancake creek but when we heard from our friend Jarrod that he was at 1770 we decided to go there rather and pop in to see him on the way. Arriving quite early the next day and with the wind still good from the North we were thinking to just stop for lunch, catch up with Jarrod and then carry on South. After a tricky and shallow entrance into beautiful Round Hill Creek we dropped the anchor right next to Jarrod on his Lagoon 42 catamaran and he came across with some beers (we had run out). It was great to see Jarrod, a new friend but an absolute kindred spirit. One drink lead to another as we went ashore to the bar, bought a case of Corona, drank some, had lunch, drank some more Coronas. It was becoming clear we weren’t going anywhere on this day and by now drinking rum on Jarrod’s boat seemed a much better idea. We met the two young Brads from another trimaran and had a hilarious drunken evening entertained by Brad (Bluey) who should be on stage as a standup comedian. In the drunkenness of the evening we left the remains of the Coronas on Jarrod’s dinghy so still no beer on the JoliFou – oh well Jarrod will enjoy them for us.

Mindful of how shallow it was entering Round Hill creek, we wanted to leave on a high tide, but with high tide at 3AM we were certainly not leaving in the dark so we left at first light on a falling tide. Jarrod’s advice was to hug the fuel dock side on the way out which we did, but shortly after it started getting really shallow. Lyn said she could see stingrays on the sand both sides of the bow, and shortly after we nudged on the bottom. We reversed off, very confused as to where to go. Eventually we figured out that we had to be VERY close to the mangroves on the starboard side, it was still quite shallow but we made it through. After a few more nervous moments we were finally into the deep sea again.

Breaksea Spit

The goal was to get to Mooloolaba before a southerly change came in and we needed to make good time to achieve this. We had decided to go outside Fraser Island rather than through the Sandy Straights which would have needed us to be exiting wide bay bar at night time, not a wise move. We had a good reach to the northern tip of the Breaksea Spit and then it got even better as we found ourselves sailing down the east side of Fraser in 3 to 4 knots of current. Down wind and down tide is the best way to go, no doubt, and it was awesome to be seeing 12 to 13 knots speed over ground for sustained periods, probably averaging over 10 knots for at least 4 hours and we had at least 2 to 3 knots with us most of the way to Mooloolaba. I don’t think it’s always this good, but we got it good indeed! We also had many dolphin visits which was great as this was something the Whitsundays seems to lack for some reason. This was all very fortunate indeed because we had no sooner tied up in the marina at Mooloolaba when the Southerly started building. After a shower and catching up with some sleep I took a cab down to the beach at Cotton Tree Parade where Lyn had been told was the good kite surfing spot. I had a really fun kite surf in small waves off the beach and then got a lift back to the marina from one of the other kiters.

Next day was a big day for visitors. We had a very old family friend David Mildren and his partner Colin drive up from Brisbane and not long after they arrived Lyn’s parents Keith and Merle arrived from the airport. Keith and Merle are in the process of immigrating to Australia from South Africa and had flown in to Sydney a couple of days previously. They are sailors so decided to fly up and join us for the rest of the trip. It was wonderful to see Dave and Colin again, it has been too long and we love their company, such great people. We all had lunch at a seafood place near the marina then there were chores to do, laundry, shopping etc. In the evening a good friend of Lyn’s from school days, Kerry came by and we had dinner together at the yacht club.

Col, Bruce and Dave

Dave, Lyn and Col

Lyn and Kerry

The Folks Arrive

The original plan was to leave at 1AM in the morning and take the route inside Moreton bay and through the Gold Coast canals, exiting at Gold Coast Seaway. Why 1AM? This time meant we would be able to navigate the channels and exit the seaway bar in daylight hours and we would also have favourable tide most of the way. The forecast had indicated the wind would be lighter and have swung from the south east to a more easterly direction, so all looked good. Well unfortunately the reality was soon discovered when we ventured out into the dark sea. There was still plenty of south in the wind and plenty of wave action too, extremely short and steep due to the shallow waters in this area. After about 3 miles of bashing up against it we decided to abort and turned tail back to Mooloolaba. A lovely little adventure for the in-laws first up, we were all quite relieved to get back safely tied up at the marina. We ended up staying for the day as the wind was still not co-operating, but it was Melbourne Cup Tuesday, so we went to the yacht club and Keith picked the winner!

The next morning the wind had gone round to the north east and we set off bright and early, but in daylight. The waves had decreased a lot and the going was quite pleasant as we motor-sailed with full working sails. The plan had changed and we now were headed outside Morten Island by way of Cape Morten. Once outside the islands we picked up really nice favourable current of about 3 knots. We saw dolphins many times and they spent long periods playing at the bow, seeming to almost be scratching their backs on the hull as we watched from above. Lyn got wet in the bosun’s chair hanging over the bow but it frightened them off, but I was able to touch a dorsal fin with my foot dangling down from the bowsprit.

Dolphins

Dolphins

Dolphins

Dolphins

Dolphins

That evening, in the vicinity of Ballina, the thunderstorms were brewing inshore and headed our way. We monitored the radar and the seabreeze wind and it appeared that we would only get a little rain and no squalls but we had decided to motor with a triple reefed main and no jib anyway because the forecast was calling for up to 30 knots northerly winds. It was lucky we did because during Keith’s watch in the late evening all hell broke loose, howling wind and rain squalls. The reefing line nappy somehow came free (it transpired I had tied it wrong) and the main was flogging. Half an hour of drama and Keith Lyn and I getting soaked as we dropped the main, then fixed the problem and re-hoisted later when the squall had passed. After the weather settled down we had a nice peaceful night motor-sailing downwind. In the morning we pulled up the full main, poled out the jib and had a very pleasant sail for much of the way towards Coffs harbor, where we would stop due to a southerly change coming.

Thunderstorm Approaching

Approaching Coffs in the early afternoon the thunderstorms were brewing again. We were taking no chances this time so it was sails down, motor on and full wet weather gear. We were ready, but in the end thankfully the main storm passed north of us and we only had a little rain before we were docked in the marina.

17 October 2014

Happy Sunset

I am writing this from Happy Bay, Long Island. It’s a very pretty place, though a fair bit tamer and civilized than we prefer. Being in direct line of sight of Shute Harbour on the mainland it is one of the spots we have discovered that has both excellent Telstra (4G internet modem) and Optus (mobile phones) coverage for us. An added bonus is that visiting yachts are allowed free use of the resort facilities here at Long Island Resort, so we can have a shower or use the pool, tennis courts, mini golf etc. if we wish to. And of course we may also buy a drink at the bar or have a meal.

Last Saturday we sailed over from Stonehaven to Happy Bay as part of our exploration of good work locations. We decided it was a good spot and anchored for lunch, intending looking at other places later. After lunch we figured why not just spend the night here? We had been in contact with our friends from Mahiti who were heading out from Airlie and we arranged for them to meet up with us at Happy Bay. I also had a chat with Mugsy from Shala and he said that they might come and join us too (but they didn’t make it).

Happy Bay wallaby

Happy Bay

We went ashore and were very happy to discover the free facilities and went for a walk to a pretty bay on the other side of the island, followed by a drink at the beach bar. Mahiti arrived and we had sun-downers on the JoliFou. It was great to catch up with James and Leah and Ewyn and Hamish. James had taken on an Italian couple, Mikaeli and Sabrina as extra crew for a few weeks to help out with the boat and the boys as Leah is going to Thailand for a couple of weeks holiday with her mom.

The wind was forecast to blow strong from the North on Monday and Tuesday, then come through strong from the South early hours of Wednesday morning. This presented a bit of an anchoring location challenge, especially as we also needed to retain good internet connection. So on Sunday we set off on a little voyage to investigate anchorages and connectivity. We did a loop through Shute Harbour (great shelter in Northerly, good connection, access to Airlie shops) then across to Gulnare inlet, which is a shallow inlet with good shelter from almost all wind directions and close to Hamilton Island for connectivity. We anchored for lunch in Gulnare in a spot with great connection, not too far in so that we had clear line to Hammo.

After lunch we decided that we would head back to Happy Bay for the night, planning a dinner with Mahiti. A great night was had on Mahiti, with Chicken Curry by Lyn and Thai veg curry by Leah.

Dinner on “Mahiti”

Mikaeli and James, Cruisers Fine Wine

Monday morning it was time to resume work – ouch! Actually I am quite enjoying work, it is good to use the brain again in different ways and every now and then one needs a break from mindless fun. If only the world worked like this, where everyone could take a short break from fun, rather than taking short breaks from work.

Around midday the Northerly started building, putting us on an increasingly nasty lee shore at Happy Bay. I used my lunch break for us to motor up and re-locate at Shute Harbour.

Shute Harbour

Cyclone aftermath

Our shallow draft with the board up meant we could have our pick of spots in the inner bay and it is a great anchorage although Shute is not the most scenic of places. We had a comfortable night here and Lyn used the opportunity to catch the bus over to Airlie and stock up on essentials such as beer whilst Silus got plenty of ashore time.

21 October 2014

Beach 25

The wind was forecast to remain quite strong from the North with a Southerly change in the early hours of Wednesday morning, so a good anchorage from all directions was required and at lunch time we sailed over to Gulnare to the spot we had checked out on Sunday. I spent the afternoon working with good internet and we then moved the boat further into the inlet for better shelter from the coming Southerly. At sunset we took the dinghy to an empty beach south of the entrance to Gulnare and Silus had a great time exploring the beach and the mangroves. We then invited ourselves to Mahiti for drinks, which would be our last chance to farewell Leah before her trip to Thailand.

As forecast, the Southerly did indeed come through during the night. It was not too bad but not the best sleep for the JoliFou crew. After a morning of work we sailed back over to Happy Bay where the shelter from the South Easterly is better.

Pretty

Long Island walk view

Tree Girl

Tame Wallaby

We stayed at Happy Bay for the next 3 nights, enjoying the good internet for Bruce’s work, drinks at the bar at sunset and a couple of walks on the island (without Silus unfortunately). Nothing remarkable but a nice “happy” existence.

The weekend had a forecast of strong South Easterly winds – time for a kite! We set off early Saturday for the Whitehaven beach area. When we arrived the wind was not yet strong enough so we headed down towards the Hill Inlet area.

Moored at Esk

Esk Hole

One of the beaches

Another Beach (Esk)

Esk Island is a beautiful tiny little island just off Hill Inlet which we have always wanted to explore but you need to use a mooring and the two moorings have always been occupied. The moorings were empty, probably due to the strong winds, and we took the opportunity. It was quite a wild mooring location with strong wind and a tidal eddy against it. Beaching the dinghy on the surging coral beach was also a bit wild, but now we had the whole island to ourselves. We decided to try to walk all the way around it on the fringing rocks, a bit of walking, bit of rock hopping and bit of rock climbing was required. We came across some stunning little beaches, set amongst beautiful rocks. About three quarters of the way around we came to a dead end, with high steep cliffs directly into a small cove.

Exhausted after a big adventure!

Electing to cut inland rather than swim, we began bush bashing our way in the general direction of the dinghy. I was a bit worried about the dinghy on the beach as we had not intended being away so long, so it was with relief that we eventually were able to make our way down a gully to the first beach we had come across and walk back around to the dinghy beach.

We motored across and into Tongue bay, adjacent to Hill Inlet, where we were fortunate to get one of the three moorings. After lunch the wind was up. Lyn dropped me at the beach and I walked over the hill to the Hill Inlet area with my kiting gear. It was a perfect wind strength for my 12 meter kite and is a fantastic kiting location. I had a great time kiting off the beach, playing in the small breaking waves. The tide was coming in and I got up-wind to the shallow Hill Inlet entrance and was able to kite into Hill Inlet and play in the flat water between the white sand-banks. I bored of this after a while and it was back to the waves. At one point I spotted a large stingray in shallow water just off the beach, shortly followed by a largish yellowy brown coloured shark, a bit disconcerting but probably not the biting kind.

Turtle at Tongue Bay

Kited-out, I walked back over to Tongue Bay, radioing Lyn with the hand-held to come and fetch me. She told me of the antics of a catamaran that was anchored fairly close to windward of us. There was duff duff music blaring from the boat and we had earlier noticed a naked man walking on the deck. After Lyn dropped me off and was headed back to JoliFou past the catamaran, there was a naked woman on the front, standing at the forestay and posing. Nothing wrong with a bit of nudity, but this was clearly seeking attention! Back at JoliFou we had a nice cold beer and settled back to enjoy the on-going show. The girl had some clothes on now (a short pixi-dress) and was dancing all around the boat, stripper-style to the loud music. By now she had the attention of all of the anchorage (which seemed to be the intent), especially the nearby back-packer maxi. Free entertainment, excellent.

The audience was distracted somewhat by the appearance of a beautiful 70 foot ketch, which limped into the bay with anchor chain hanging over the bow.

Off to the rescue!

The skipper was dangling over the bow trying to attach a halyard to the anchor and didn’t appear to be getting much able help from the elderly guests on the boat. Lyn suggested I offer assistance. I reluctantly pulled myself away from the strip show and headed over in the dinghy. My offer of assistance was gratefully accepted. Their anchor winch had broken and the anchor was too big to pull up by hand. I was able to help by re-attaching the halyard to the anchor chain multiple times whilst they winched it up and retrieved chain a meter at a time. Eventually we were all very happy to see a big shiny anchor, which we were able to secure with me pushing up and the skipper pulling from the deck.

Champagne Queen with spoils

They handed me a bottle of very nice champagne and headed off for Hamilton Island marina. On delivering my hard-earned payment to the champagne queen of JoliFou I was told that I had missed the climax of the show, which was apparently very loud screams of sexual pleasure, but didn’t last long. (We suspect this may have been part of the financial contract).

As the sun was starting to set the anchorage was getting increasingly rolly as the building swell started to bend into the bay. We had a bit of a thought that we should re-locate for the night, but decided not to. This breaks one of the rules of cruising that we are starting to understand: If you think you should do something (eg. up anchor, reef, extra mooring line) then you should do it! We paid for our mistake with a largely sleepless night with the boat rolling about. At one point in the middle of the night we discussed moving the boat, but on reflection there were really no good safe options nearby. Whitehaven beach would be just as rolly in the strong wind and anchoring in the steep shelving sand close to the reef at Chalkies beach or at the unfamiliar Windy Bay would be highly inadvisable in the dark.

Next morning we were happy to drop that mooring and motor South into the wind, towards Solway passage. We were very amused when the entertainment cat came motoring past us, full throttle, really close, and we had another brief show.

Joliette

My mother, Joliette was joining us for a week and she was due to arrive at Hamilton Island later in the morning – a great excuse for us to check into the marina and get some rest. Mom had only just arrived back from a trip to South Africa and London for my niece Emily’s wedding (sorry we couldn’t make it) so was a bit reluctant but we love spending time with her and were able to talk her into it. Mom has been at our side assisting us all the way with this adventure and she is the “Jol” in “JoliFou”. Once through Solway we pulled out the jib in really quite rough conditions on the windward side of Whitsunday Island. The depth here is quite shallow, less than 20 meters in places and the 25 + knot winds were causing quite large waves (for the Whitsundays anyway) which were often breaking at the tops. The cowboy quite enjoyed the trip but there was some concern from the rest of the crew. We were very happy to bear away into calmer waters in Fitzalan passage (tide with wind) and be informed that our marina berth had come available early so we were able to go straight into Hammo marina.

It was wonderful to see my mom’s happy face again after quite some time apart. Silus recognized her immediately and bolted across the marina lot to her, barking madly and proceeding to go through his entire repertoire of cute tricks! On our way to the showers later we noticed that Anthem was in the marina and shortly after we bumped into Adrian and his crew. We went out to dinner at the tavern and joined Adrian and his crew of Julie, Nadia and James, followed by Irish coffees on Anthem.

“Barcelona”

Next morning we set sail for Airlie. It was an excellent sail with 20 knots of wind from behind plus a favorable tide of 2 to 3 knots, we were averaging about 9 knots over ground. That night we got together with Lizzie from Shala (Mugsy is away working at the moment) and the new Anthem crew of Adrian, Julie and Phil at our favourite restaurant, Barcelona. A great feed was had by all, followed by Irish coffees (with or without coffee or Whisky) and Milos on the JoliFou. As we prepare to post this we are all a little jaded from too much of the good stuff. Anthem is heading off into the high winds but we are choosing to remain in Airlie for another night until things moderate a bit.

9 October 2014

Drift Dive

At the same moment I realized that I was away from the reef in very deep water, a large Black Tip Shark appeared out of the murky visibility. It looked at me and turned around, heading directly for me! This was not even my biggest concern in the predicament I had fallen into. More on this later.

Speak no evil

On the morning after the Abba party we went over to Whitehaven beach and anchored there for a while. The South East breeze picked up a little and I got out the 17 meter kite to have a go. It’s a perfect place for kiting, but unfortunately the wind was not quite strong enough, so although I was able to get going I couldn’t stay upwind, so had to do a few walks back up the beach.

“One More” and “Anthem” at Chalkies

Unfortunately our friends were nearing the end of their holiday so needed to start heading in the direction of Airlie. We sailed and motored to Cid harbour on the other side of Whitsunday island, including a hairy moment going through Fitzalan passage with standing waves against about 4 knots of tide. The boat was surfing but we were going no-where fast. Cid is a perfect sheltered anchorage but with a lot of boats anchored there and very murky water. We anchored in closest to the beach and had the usual sun-downers on the beach followed by dinner with “One More”. Next morning we all (except Silus) did the hike up to the top of Whitehaven peak. It’s a pretty walk and pretty hard on the unfit legs too! The wildlife was un-inspiring. On the way up we saw 5 lizards, 5 LIZARDS! Awesome! The view from the top is breathtaking though, especially to the North.

Looking West

JoliFou in the distance

Drew, Chris, Joe, Angus, Karma, Emma, Lyn, Sarah and Katrina

Katrina, Sarah and Lyn enjoying the view from the top

Looking South

The Walk

After lunch we sailed to Airlie and checked in to Abel point Marina once more. We had a delicious (and expensive) feast at Barcelona restaurant, the last meal with Chris and Katrina as they were flying out early the next morning. Next morning it was time for some chores – Lyn washed the boat and did the laundry, whilst Bruce packed away the gennaker and staysail, changed the dive computer battery and got the dive tanks filled. Joe and Belinda had spent the day cleaning “One More” and finally managing to solve the mystery of the broken toilet! We had a walk through Airlie in the afternoon, sundowners at Sorrentos for the girls, then went to dinner at Hoggs Breath (Drew’s choice).

Dinner on “Anthem” with Adrian and Andrew

Silus making himself at home on “Anthem”

Next morning it was sad to farewell Joe and Belinda. It had been a wonderful holiday with a week filled with fun and adventure, but for them it was back to running the boatyard. For us the holiday goes on. We filled the boat and dinghy tanks with fuel and headed out to Blue Pearl bay, following on the tracks of Anthem who had also been in Airlie with Adrian changing crew and sorting out the water in gear oil issue. The plan was to overnight at Blue Pearl and head out to the reef early morning it was much less crowded after the school holidays and managed to get a mooring. After sun-downers on the beach we enjoyed a delicious meal and fine red wine on Anthem, meeting Adrian’s friend Andrew who is a great bloke with many entertaining stories. Andrew was on the Adrian crash course of scuba training and had had his first dive ever that afternoon.

We left for Bait reef at the relatively civilized hour of 7 AM and had a lovely reach across to the reef in a 10 to 15 knot South Easterly with full main and headsail and later Gennaker. After Anthem we were the second boat out there so picked up our “usual” mooring close to the stepping stones. Right on cue the wind faded (as forecast) and it was time to dive. With the tide ebbing North we took a dinghy to Gary’s inlet and worked our way down-stream back to the boats. With the spring tides it was less visibility than on our previous dives here but still was quite spectacular and not too extreme for Andrew who had literally been thrown in the deep end, but did really well. Back to the boats for lunch and fill the tanks for a dive again in the afternoon.

Drift Dive

With the tide still ebbing the plan was to do Manta Ray wall by taking two dinghys, leaving one at the Manta Ray mooring and the other at Gary’s Inlet. The tide was now ripping really strongly along the wall and it was quite rough as we got in the water at Manta Ray, having to hold onto the dinghy to prevent being swept away. We were to go through the small gully that we had done before (in slack tide) and continue down the wall. We all let go of the dinghy together and started downwards, it was immediately apparent that this was way different to our previous dives, the visibility was quite murky from the ripping tide and we could not see the reef wall or gully.

I had mask leaking issues so re-surfaced a couple of times to sort it out. The second time I submerged I could no longer see the others. I swam down in the direction of the gully entrance but could still not see anyone. Suddenly I realised I was really deep at 30 meters, there was down-pull caused by the ripping tidal eddies and I was struggling to get shallower, swimming hard upwards but the gauge was remaining at 30! Eventually I started getting shallower and decided I should surface and try to locate the others, I could still not see the reef wall despite swimming hard in that direction. I had been down for about 10 minutes when I finally reached the surface again. Looking around I was totally disorientated, I was clearly quite far away from the reef wall but also I could see a dinghy which I was already past and it was the JoliFou dinghy, but we had started from the Anthem dinghy!

It took me a while to process all of this and to finally realise that the current had taken me all the way down here in just 10 minutes. No sign of the others and I was now getting worried. What if the same thing had happened to them? What if Lyn had been taken down by the down-eddy and was in trouble, with me no-where around to help!? First priority I had to get back to the JoliFou dinghy which I was now down-stream of, so I needed to get out of the deep water and to the reef where the current would be much less. I went under to start swimming hard towards the reef …. And that’s when I saw the huge shark. We see reef sharks often when diving, but somehow when you are at the reef in good visibility it all feels quite safe, and you just enjoy the beauty of these graceful fish. In the deep, murky, tidal water it was different and the shark was of the size where “it’s too small to bite me” no longer applied. And it had turned and was coming right at me!

Somehow with the worry for Lyn and the others uppermost in my mind I had a sudden mind-change from fear to anger. Come on shark, if you get close to me I’m going to kick you and punch you and you will be sorry! The shark turned away and continued its course, pheww. Maybe it read my mind and got frightened? More likely it decided I was not what it eats and it became bored.

I finally reached the reef, well downstream of the dinghy. I stood up on a shallow bit of reef and looked around, but no sign of the others. I started swimming as fast as I could along the fringe of the reef. Mercifully the tide here was light and even the odd back-eddy to help me on my way. Along the way I saw two schools of huge Maori Wrasse, an amazing thing to savour in any normal circumstance. I finally clambered into the dinghy, stood up and looked around. I saw one diver a little further up-stream near the reef and started heading that way. I’m hoping like hell it’s Lyn or Andrew (I’m not so worried about Adrian as he is extremely experienced). As I get closer I see it’s Adrian – shit, what has happened to the others? Adrian points up the reef and yells “go and get Lyn and Andrew first, she is freaking out!” – relief. They are close to the Anthem dinghy still, at the exit of the initial gully. We are all extremely relieved and happy to be back in the boat and together.

Time for a rum! Back at Anthem and a few rums later we figure out what must have happened. The others had made it into the gully and at the exit there was a back-eddy which kept them there as they surfaced to look for me. They were very concerned as I had literally disappeared. Lyn had seen me on the surface as she went down, went down to the others, realized I was not there and came up to look for me. Meantime I had missed the gully, been swept wide into the deep tidal stream and by the time I surfaced I was already 300 meters away and we could not see each other. Respect for nature’s forces! If you do some simple math, At 4 knots a current will rip you 1 nautical mile in just 15 minutes – that is way further than the eye can see each other at head above water height. Lyn thought I might be dead having visions of me being sucked down and hitting my head or something, she was extremely worried! Meanwhile Andrew was struggling a bit in the rough seas so there was concern for him too. Adrian set off swimming to get the JoliFou dinghy, leaving Lyn and Andrew behind. When they saw someone coming in the dinghy they weren’t sure if it was Adrian and were extremely relieved to see it was me!

“Anthem”

“MacGyver” Session

Next day the two boats headed over to Hook Reef, the plan being to do some spear fishing which is allowed there (but not at Bait Reef). We picked our way through the bommies quite far into the “hook” and anchored in sand between some likely looking bommies. Adrian and Andrew came over to the JoliFou to have a look at the spear gun inventory that we had inherited from the previous owner. Lyn and I have never spear fished so there was a lot to learn from Adrian who has done it a lot. Between our 4 guns Adrian was able to Macgyver one that works. We need to get the others serviced, new rubbers etc. We all set off in the dinghy with Adrian and I with the guns and Lyn and Andrew were to be the fish killers in the dinghy as we tossed all of the fish in. Well it didn’t quite work out that way. There were not many appropriate fish large enough to shoot. We both had a couple of shots at one, but missed. This spear fishing is a lot harder than I thought it would be. We then decided to take both dinghys over to the outside of the reef and try there, but this too was a failure as the tide was rushing in over the reef and we had no chance of staying at the reef edge. Oh well, at least I now know the ropes and what we need to sort out with the gear.

The wind was building and it looked like it was not a good idea spending another night at the reef, so we upped anchor, pulled up the sails and headed back towards the islands. We parted company with Anthem as they were headed for Gloucester Island and we needed to get somewhere with internet connection as I am going to do some remote work for the next couple of weeks.

11 October 2014

Date Night

As we prepare to post this blog we are in Stonehaven anchorage on the west side of Hook Island. The Telstra modem gets us an internet connection here and I was able to connect to the work VPN yesterday but it is not strong and we need to find a better place for work next week and to post the blog. Last night was the first night with just the two of us in a while and we had a date night with a delicious candle-lit meal of slow roasted goat (courtesy of the homestead on Middle Percy Island a few weeks ago), followed by watching “The Internship” (hilarious). The mission for the weekend is to try to find a good beautiful anchorage that has good Telstra 4G connection so that I can do the remote work effectively including video conferencing. Airlie beach is always an option, but if possible we would like to be somewhere nicer. We have a Telstra coverage map and we will be sailing around and testing the signal, probably further South around Hamilton Island area.

30 September 2014

As we sit here on the Jolifou in the beautiful Blue Pearl Bay, it is 8PM (half hour to cruisers midnight) on a perfect evening. Sea is calm, wind is light, a perfect anchorage but for the fact that there are 20 other boats here, most notably a few of the back-packer charter boats from Airlie that arrived late in the day. The serene night air is harshly cut by the techno music and shouts of partyers. Never mind, we were all young once right and there are plenty more serene bays out there. We will sleep well anyway because it’s been a big day.

Hamilton Island Yacht Club

It was wonderful to catch up with Joe and Belinda and the kids Karma and Drew in the marina at Hamilton Island. We decided that the pricey marina fee would be worth it to properly welcome two of our best friends. Indeed, were it not for Joe we would not have the JoliFou so we owe him big, but more than that they are friends that go back a long way and we always enjoy their company immensely. As we pulled into the finger of the Marina the first boat we saw was their Lagoon 40 catamaran “One More”. We had dinner onboard “One More” and enjoyed meeting Katrina and Chris and their lovely daughters Sarah and Emma and son Angus.

Somehow after the nth drink we were talked into returning the golf cart for them the next morning so they could make an early start. This suited us just fine as we partook of a bit of a whirlwind tour of Hammo on the golf cart whilst we awaited the opening of the bottle shop (as you do). In short, the marina area is quite quaint, the resort rather ugly especially the huge block of apartments, the yacht club is stunning with amazing architecture really well done. The over-riding impression is crowds. Golf-carts and people buzzing around everywhere! Probably this is not so bad outside of school holidays, but I found myself really rushing to prepare the boat to leave as soon as possible – we just had to get out of there!

We left the mainsail covered and broke out the Gennaker in the 18 knot South Easterly for a very pleasant reach up to the top end of Hook Island, where we were to meet “One More” at Butterfly Bay. On the way we crossed paths with our friends on Mahiti, who were unfortunately going the other way, on their way to pick up a friend at Hammo.

Of course there were no moorings available any more at Butterfly Bay by the time we got there, but this time we did successfully anchor. We are getting better at anchoring in deep water. It was a wonderful surprise to come across Adrian and his stunning 60 footer “Anthem” which we had last seen in the shed at Joe and Belinda’s boatyard in Newcastle over a month ago where Adrian had been working on it and project managing the refurbishment. The result is a gorgeous boat, which is also aluminium so we feel a bond. Adrian and family and the “One More” gang came for drinks on JoliFou, then we had dinner on “One More” (again).

This morning we finally touched the rock again, on an interesting little slab we had scoped out whilst taking Silus ashore. The whole gang from all 3 boats rocked up (ha ha). The rock was a bit crumbly in places, tried leading the climb and my first cam placement pulled straight out with a shower of rock fragments – hmmmm. Plan B, we setup a top-rope by climbing up a much easier route. Joe and Belinda’s lovely daughter Karma was given first attempt. Karma is a very keen and proficient indoor climber and boulderer but has little experience on rock and the crux was just beyond her reach (literally). Bruce managed to get up and become the first ascender, with no thanks to the sledging from the peanut gallery below. Halfway up a march fly attacked him and had to be killed before continuing. I hereby name this climb “Fly Shake” (16) after the body action that was done by myself and many of the other climbers of the day to prevent a painful sting from a march fly. Lyn shot up the rock straight up the middle, apart from one small slip it was the best ascent of the day. Joe and Adrian also managed to get up, though the judging panel did note some out of bounds infractions. Adrian’s niece Ruby had a very good attempt despite never climbing before, as did young Emma. Karma had a second attempt and came very close despite energetic attention of the march flies.

The 3 boats then set off for Blue Pearl Bay on the North Western side of Hayman Island, just a few miles away. This afternoon we had a nice dive with Adrian and Ruby at the Northern side of the bay, thanks to Adrian filling our tanks with his compressor. In places the coral was stunning, in other places dead. Adrian did the same dive back in 2004 and he says he can’t believe how the coral has degraded since then – a sobering thought. Highlight of the dive for Lyn and I was seeing a huge Potato Cod up really close.

At sunset we enjoyed drinks on the beach with the crews of Anthem and “One More” and were also joined by Craig from “Ocean Star” and met his lovely partner Nelly. Plan is to go out to Bait Reef again tomorrow along with “One More” and Anthem, probably a super early start.

2 October 2014

A Big Day is a Good Day

A big day is a good day. Somehow the fun energetic activity feeds your personal energy and you find yourself taking on more. By the end of the day you are totally spent, but with a glow of happiness fed by the joyful memories of a day well lived. Yesterday was such a day, no doubt.

Silus and Lyn, Off Watch!

We awoke at Blue Pearl at 2:40 AM, for a 3AM start. After some initial struggles with getting the anchor up we finally set off. Lyn had permission to go back to bed and I unfurled the jib and later hoisted the mainsail double-reefed and enjoyed a beautiful sail into the sun-rise in the moderate South Easterly. On arrival at Bait Reef there were just 3 un-occupied moorings available inside the stepping stones – 2 public and 1 private (no anchoring allowed here). We picked up one and then chatted on the VHF to Anthem and “One More” who had left a bit later than us. They were now engaged in a life or death struggle to get to the Reef ahead of each other and a charter motorboat to claim the last moorings! I went out in the dinghy to act as finish boat. Joey was taking no chances and came flying in, full noise, to take the honours and the final public mooring. Adrian had left Anthem with a little too much to do, and had to settle for wooden spoon. I hopped aboard and guided them around to the Manta Ray wall mooring. With me steering and Adrian picking up the mooring there were a few moments of concern as we were quite exposed meters from a lee reef in quite wavy windy conditions. Fortunately Adrian picked up the mooring perfectly first time and Anthem was able to relax on a bumpy but safe mooring.

Lyn loaned her dive gear to Joe and we took the gear up to Anthem with Chris acting as a willing and extremely capable rescue dinghy captain. The tanks were filled and Chris dropped us off in a gully near Gary’s inlet, the plan being to drift with the current along Manta Ray wall and back to the Anthem. It was a spectacular dive with stunning coral and prolific fish. Highlight was a huge Coral trout.

Later in the day a boat left one of the private moorings inside the stepping stones so Adrian came down to get it. I went in the dinghy to assist because we happened to know that you had to pass a mooring line through the loop under the buoy on this one so Adrian would have a bit on doing this with the girls. The rope wasn’t pulling through the loop because of a rusty metal insert and I managed to get my hand stuck whilst trying to free it. Thanks to Adrian’s quick thinking, releasing the end when this happened I escaped with just a few scratches.

What was left of the lamb when the photographer finally remembered she had a job to do!

Drinks under the stars on the One More

Joey doing the dishes after a delicious feast… how come that never happens on JoliFou?

In the afternoon it was the girls’ turn to scuba, with me as the boat boy. Belinda, Lyn and Ruby had a great dive at Gary’s inlet, with reef sharks, beautiful visibility and coral and many fishes. It was the first time Belinda had dived in very many years and she was a bit apprehensive but did great and thoroughly enjoyed it. Then it was dinner on “One More”, delicious slow roasted lamb by Katrina, roast vegies by Lyn. We took our last bottle of KannonKop South African red and it all slipped down really well, yum. The evening ended with drinks under the stars on the front trampoline. Then time for bed, the end of a big day ………..

3 October 2014

Yesterday morning we awoke to find the dive charter catamaran “Wings 3” had moved to the mooring right alongside us. This was highly convenient as they were one of the boats on the dive shop list for tank fills. I asked if we could have our tanks filled and they were extremely obliging, and no charge too – excellent. Adrian has been so generous filling our tanks but his small compressor is noisy and takes about 25 minutes per tank, so it is a bonus when we can save him the hassle by getting the fill done by one of the dive boats with huge compressors and staging tanks which only takes a few minutes. Triathlete Joe came swimming by and stopped off for a very important coffee fix (no coffee machine on “One More”) and we hatched a plan with Adrian to go for a dive at 9.

The previous evening we had two young boys from a nearby catamaran come by in their dinghy asking if we had any ice for them. Seemed a strange request but when we enquired further the answer was “no english” and they were off to the next boat. At “One More” they asked for sugar. Joe sent them to Anthem as he knew that Ruby speaks Spanish. At Anthem, on chatting to Ruby, they said that they needed her help please back at their boat. Ruby gamely obliged and went back to their boat with them. Later Adrian, Claire and Laura went over to the cat also and by all accounts had a great time with drinks and dancing on the deck. The truth of the two boys was revealed. Their dad had bet them 100 dollars that they could not get a girl to come back to the boat with them. Ruby had “helped” them to win the bet! It turns out they are Chilean from Patagonia. They briefly stopped by JoliFou on their way to Anthem for breakfast – a lovely bunch of people.

Adrian, Ruby, Joe and I set off with Lyn as boat girl to the Manta Ray wall area. We wanted to do the pinnacle chimney, which we had missed the day before, so we started the dive near that location. We saw Lyn’s eel from our previous dive here then dived down to the entrance to the pinnacle. We went up the chimney, through the squeeze gulley at the top and surfaced through a small hole in the reef. There were numerous large fish in the chimney and gulley and swam close by us. Then we dove back down the same way and out along the wall towards Gary’s inlet. We spotted 3 sharks. One small white tip swam very close to us for a while and one shark was quite large but a bit further away. We came across an area that was a maze of tunnels, swim throughs, caves and bommies with schools of small colourful fish and many larger fish too – spectacular. This was the best dive we have done so far and we were all very excited about it.

View from above Cateran Bay

Then it was time to leave and head for Cateran Bay, Border Island in the building South Easterly breeze. Joey left earliest as the kids were chafing at the bit for some dry land time. Anthem and JoliFou engaged in an exciting race. With the wind at about 12 to 15 knots at 60 degrees apparent, Jolifou elected to go with full genoa and full mainsail. Anthem put up the huge asymmetric spinnaker, which looked great but was struggling at such a tight wind angle, allowing JoliFou to establish an initial lead despite being 20 feet shorter. Adrian eventually decided that working sails would be better and socked the spinnaker – a process which allowed JoliFou to extend further ahead. JoliFou was averaging about 7.5 knots and surging up to over 8 on the gusts, but with Anthem on the new sail plan her waterline length started to come into effect and the gap was slowly decreasing. Anthem finally took the lead with just a few miles of the 18 mile leg to go and went on to take a good come-back victory – well done 😦

Another day in paradise

Cateran Bay is lovely with a medium sized beach framed by majestic rocks and hills. We joined the “One More” crew on the beach for sun-downers, then it was back to the JoliFou where we enjoyed watching “The Wolf of Wall Street” courtesy of some movies that we copied from Chris. What a different world, we certainly know which one we prefer. It was quite a restless knight with big bullets of wind in the bay form the building South Easterly and some swell getting in to the anchorage too. We were waken once by the chart plotter anchor drift alarm, but it was just a wide swing. I deployed the sea anchor to dampen the motion of the boat and we got some sleep.

4 October 2014

The head is throbbing slightly this morning, but there are others amongst us who are a lot worse off following the mega dinner party of last night. The soothing white sands of Whitehaven Beach and the gentle lapping of small waves against the hull does help to soothe the pain tho, but then the peace is shattered by a helicopter or sea plane – ouch! We are anchored only a few meters off and from the cockpit I can hear the natter of the girls on the beach.

The crew at the top

Yesterday morning we walked up to near the top of the highest hill (mountain?) on Border Island. It was hot work, but the view was spectacular. Then it was off to Chalkies Beach for the night. Chalkies is a gorgeous squeaky white sand beach. It has all the beauty of Whitehaven without the madness.

Dinner and a Show

It was about time that JoliFou repaid the hospitality we have enjoyed on “One More” and Lyn broke out the lamb back-straps and cooked up a storm. With the Anthem crew invited also, it was dinner for 15 and we all had a great feast, including lamb chops from Anthem and salads from both boats. Adrian brought a few bottles of red from his huge fine wine collection which was delicious.

15 to dinner… record to date

A great time was had by all and when the wine finally ran out we broke out the dreaded French white rum. Potent stuff. Some (Claire) failed to heed the warning and treated it like a shot (she is suffering the most today). As the evening appeared to be winding down suddenly Abba started blaring out of the cockpit speakers and Agnetha (Lyn) appeared center companionway, hairbrush mike in hand. The show had begun! Katrina and Laura were soon up there, belting out the lyrics too and soon everyone was singing along. A great night, I haven’t laughed so much in a long time. Poor Chris bore the brunt of the punishment, as on climbing out of the dinghy at “One More” he lost his balance and landed on the sharp point of a winch, cutting his elbow open. Not sure which hurts more this morning, the head or the elbow, we have yet to see him surface.

25 September 2014

Bait reef, moored just inside the stepping stones, the weather is perfect with a light North Easterly wind and hardly any swell, the sun has just set, Silus is sleeping, Lyn is cooking dinner, Bruce is relaxing and typing this blog. All is right with our world.

Airlie Marina

Our time at Airlie in the marina was relaxing and fairly uneventful. Chores were done, package collected from the yacht club. We now have jack-lines and good Spinlock all-in-one harness and inflatable lifejacket, so we will be safer on the way back than we were on the way up here. Highlight of the stay was catching up with some old friends. We had drinks with a Manly skiffies mate Mugsy (Andrew Phillips) and his partner Lizzie on their beautiful Cavalier 46 “Shala” before they set off out to the islands. We will hook up with them again out and about. We bumped into Catssy (Paul Catts) from the offshore Pittwater community who has been up here for some time, currently teaching boat Master at Tafe and repairing his cyclone damaged boat. Had a lovely impromptu drinks and dinner with Cattsy, his friend Emma and Craig from Morning Star whom we had befriended at Lady Musgrave Island. Lyn whipped up some delicious pizzas and evening drinks became a full-scale dinner party.

Old Ragamuffin

Retirement Village for Maxi’s

Airlie is a nice place, but not really that different from any other coastal resort town. It’s ironic that a place with “Beach” in it’s name has probably one of the ugliest muddy beaches in Australia. To compensate they have built a man-made lagoon area, which reminds one of the Durban beach front pools. A pleasant area for people with young kids, but in the context of the nearby beauty of the islands (I don’t want to be rude but) it’s really rather tasteless and ugly. For the young back-packer it is a great place with many hostels and a vibrant night life. There are a lot of tourists and a lot to keep them entertained. Many charter boats compete for the tourist dollar. The most interesting are the old IOR maxi yachts, this place is like the maxi yacht retirement village and it is actually great that these boats have found a use where they would otherwise be long-since dead. Every day the tourists line up to go out on the various boats and returning boats have the mandatory shout of “Yes!” in the marina where they compete to prove who’s guests had the best time.

Tanks… tick!

One essential mission at Airlie was sourcing some scuba tanks. We both have everything for scuba but the tanks we have on the boat are European and we can’t get them filled in Australia (nanny state). So we decided to bite the bullet and buy two used tanks from the extremely friendly local scuba shop in the marina which had come off a superyacht, so not too much use we assume. Lyn also decided to upgrade her fishing gear after some great advice from Craig. So we were fully locked and loaded for action when we set off from Airlie on Wednesday. We had spent one more day than originally planned due to us paying for 3 nights by mistake? (cest la vie).

Shala @ Stonehaven

The plan was to maybe catch up with Mugsy at Stonehaven anchorage overnight, then onwards to the reef the next morning. There were no moorings at Stonehaven so we ended up on a mooring at the nearby small Langford Island, which was a bit uncomfortable when the tide turned and the boat was being pulled opposite ways by tide and wind. Not to worry, it was to be a short night anyway, as we cast off at 3AM. We wanted to make sure of a mooring at Bait Reef by arriving at first light. Negotiating the quite narrow channels between Hayman and Hook was a bit nerve-wracking with no moon, but the Raymarine chart plotter has never been wrong yet so with it confirming my visual observations of cardinal and channel marks it was negotiated without drama. The 3 hour journey to Bait Reef was a pleasant enough motor-sail with a double-reefed main moderate wind fine on the bow and a small seaway that was not too uncomfortable (Lyn may beg to differ).

Arriving at Bait Reef

We arrived at the reef shortly after sun-rise. There were only two other boats there; a small catamaran and the large Anaconda III schooner charter dive boat. We picked up a great mooring very close to the stepping stones which was very quiet and comfortable despite the rushing incoming tide. We had a couple of hours to wait for slack (high) tide before diving which was spent getting out and checking our dive gear. This is something we really should have done at Airlie, especially as we discovered that Lyn’s fancy dive watch/computer had a flat battery and the basic computer on my rig also was not working – whoopsy daisy! Oh well, we would just have to make sure we didn’t go too deep for long and make sure we stayed shallow for the last stages of the dive.

A little to late to check gear Lyn!

Leaving Silus barking like a lunatic down below, we set off on our first scuba dive in a long time. The stepping stones are a really exciting scuba terrain with many walls, caves and swim-troughs and really beautiful coral. We were actually a little disappointed in the amount of fish life, which seemed not to match up with the billing we had read for the place. We did see many interesting fish but not in large schools or numbers. We saw two white tip reef sharks, from a bit of a distance and a large Maori Wrasse, also from a distance.

After surfacing back near the boat a friendly chap from Anaconda III came over in the dinghy and offered us a lift back to the boat. We enquired whether they could possibly do a tank fill for us and he took us in the boat back to Anaconda where they extremely generously filled our tanks for free. What a lovely crew, doing this for us when they really need not have and also not charging us for it. It’s such a bonus to have the tanks filled so we can dive again, especially since there are no other options for filling around us at the moment.

New Look Silus

In the afternoon we took the standup boards for a paddle over and along the outside of the reef. It was flat calm with beautiful visibility through the glassy surface. Took the opportunity to do a bit of a reccy of some of the other dive sites here from the surface. After getting back to the boat the resident scrounger fishes were hanging out at the stern, hoping to be fed (obviously other boats feed them, can’t imagine the enemy would be happy with that). This sent Silus completely over the top, barking like a mad thing and climbing/falling down the back steps to the sugar scoop, which he has never done before. Despite our warnings that he would fall in (yes Lyn believes he understands English) he carried on and a splash soon followed. After fishing him out we hoped that he had learned his lesson but he seemed not to be too put off by the experience. From now on he is wearing his doggy life jacket whenever he is not harnessed on.

26 September 2014

A great day or a bad day?

As we sit here in Hardy Lagoon out on the reef the sun is close to setting on another eventful day on the JoliFou. To Bruce it was a great day, to Lyn a bad one. Let me explain.

After an okay night at Bait Reef which started a bit bumpy in a building North Easter but settled to a nice calm morning, we moved the boat this morning “round the corner” of Bait reef from the Stepping Stones to a mooring at the Manta Ray Wall dive site on the Southern side. When the tide went slack enough we set off around 9:30 on a beautiful dive. It started with a shallowish gorge through beautiful coral with plenty of pretty little fish, then opened up to a deep blue drop-off with many large fish. Descending the drop-off we came across a stunning chimney from about 18 meters down up to close to the surface, followed by a narrow gulley through the coral, fish everywhere! Then we swam on the surface over the coral back to the depths and followed the stunning wall back towards the boat. Spotted two largish white tip sharks and numerous other large fish. By pure luck we managed to get back to the mooring line around about the time the air was running out.

Bruce: “That was one of the best dives I’ve ever done, especially the deep drop-off wall.”

(It should be noted here that Lyn is a PADI Dive Master, Bruce has no recent dive training at all.)

Lyn: “Yes it was a great dive BUT it was spoiled for me because you were going too fast and too deep, it’s very dangerous especially when we have no computer” (Lyn was checking depth on her camera). “You need to look at me more often, I was constantly worried about you and trying to signal you to go shallower. I loved the shallow gully and swim-throughs but the wall was poorer visibility and causing you to go too deep. I think I need a new dive partner.”

JoliFou in Hardy Lagoon

We upped anchor and motored eastward to the inside of Hook Reef, where we anchored for lunch. A nice place but not very exciting. After lunch we upped anchor to head North for Line Reef or Hardy Lagoon, TBD when we got there. Hardy Lagoon has a notorious entrance called the “Waterfall”, on account of the fact that it looks like a waterfall when the tide is running out of it from the lagoon to the outside. The 100 Magic Miles guide book recommends only attempting entry a couple hours after low tide or at high tide. We got there just after high tide. The chart plotter doesn’t show the entrance and all we had to go by was the sketch map in the book, which is a bit misleading because we initially completely missed it and had to turn around when we realized that we must have done so. The reason we missed it is that no-where in the guide does it say how extremely narrow it is – it is literally about 6 meters wide (we are 4 meters wide). We were looking for something “clear and unambiguous” as per the guide?

Eventually we figured out what had to be the entrance. By this time it was a couple hours after high tide. We decided to edge towards it and check it out, Lyn on the bow calling the depth and coral heads. “Looks okay, looks good, left, LEFT, BOMMIE, REVERSE!” I slam into reverse, not thinking about the dinghy behind us on a long rope. Clunk! Beeeeeep! The rope is around the prop, the dinghy half sucked under the boat, the engine has stopped!

Bruce thinks: Oh shit, we are stuffed now, close to the reef, no engine, big tide, no wind!

Lyn thinks:  Oh shit, we are stuffed now, close to the reef, no engine, big tide, no wind!

Bruce: “Let’s use the dinghy.” Lyn: “But it’s stuck under the boat!” Bruce: “Shit! Get a knife.”

Lyn grabs her dive knife and Bruce jumps in the water and cuts the dinghy rope so the dinghy pops out. Starts the dinghy, we tie a rope from JoliFou bow to dinghy bow and with Bruce reversing the dinghy and Lyn steering the JF and using bow thruster we pull away from the reef to more open water.

Lyn thinks: Now we are in big trouble. We have no engine, what are we going to do? (Lyn has never been in this situation before)

Bruce thinks: Thank god we are clear of the reef. We can clear the rope from the prop and all will be good again. (Bruce has been in this situation a few times and knows that the prop can be cleared and things will be sorted.)

Bruce dons fins and face mask and dives under the boat with the knife. Actually the knife was not required and managed to unwind the rope from the prop quite easily. Lyn starts engine, tries forward gear, all good…… phheeewwww!

Bruce decides that whilst in dinghy it would be prudent to check out the entrance (and other possibilities) before putting JoliFou close to the reef again. Buzzes around through one entrance which is long and narrow and looks too shallow at the end. Then back through the gap we had first looked at – it looks good – narrow but deep enough and short in length. However, by now the tide is starting to rip out through it quite fast – time is of the essence! Back to the boat and tell Lyn the plan.

Bruce thinks: We can do this, it is tight but short and with good speed and the right angle we will be through quickly.

Lyn thinks: I don’t want to go anywhere near that narrow gap in the reef again, this is crazy!

Lyn: “We shouldn’t do this, I’m not going on the bow to watch this!” Goes down below.

Bruce: “It’ll be fine, I checked it. Hold on, here we go!”

Breathe in, commit with speed, trust the angle, watch the sides and the push of the current closely, we are through!! Relief!

Bruce thinks: Wow, that was exciting. What an adventure!

Lyn thinks: He is a total cowboy, taking a ridiculous risk with the boat, Silus and I.

Lyn is not talking to Bruce. Bruce doesn’t understand why initially but as the adrenaline fades, is starting to realize that he really shouldn’t have done that. The adrenaline was up and it was all rather rash, okay to do this kind of risky stuff with your toys, but NOT with your boat, your home and the love of your life. So Lyn had a bad day, Bruce had a great day (becoming a lot worse because of remorse and Lyn’s anger to him).

29 September 2014

Reef World – Hardy Lagoon

It was a beautiful night at Hardy Lagoon. Very little wind, flat water, a stunning setting crescent moon and bright stars shining unimpeded by the lights of civilization. We slept really well, both of us exhausted from the nervous stress of the afternoon’s events.

Hardy Lagoon is beautiful, but we are starting to realize that if you have seen one reef you have seen them all, at least from the surface. The true beauty of this area is the underwater world, but the visibility in the lagoon is not great for some reason. We had a paddle outside of the lagoon along the sheer reef wall (it drops from 1m to over 50m) and you could see many fishes large and small through the glassy surface. It also gave us an opportunity to scope out the waterfall again. It was becoming apparent that we really had not entered in the right state of tide, as with tide a bit higher it looked far friendlier. We would leave on slack high tide.

The Reef World pontoon is moored just outside the lagoon in the pass between Hardy and Hook reefs and we took the dinghy over to have a look and see if they would do a scuba tank fill for us. The staff were really friendly and welcoming. The tanks could not be filled as the boat with the punters was arriving soon but they invited us aboard too have a tour of the pontoon. Silus was welcome too and a hit with the crew who loved the novelty of a cute dog on the pontoon. It is a really cool setup, with huge fish (the biggest grouper we have seen) hanging out under the pontoon and underwater viewing locations.

Then it was back to the JoliFou to get ready to take on the waterfall again at high tide this time. The exit was hugely more relaxing than the entrance and I think we now will be happy to return, but only at high tide! We decided to take the scenic route down the narrow winding channel between Hardy and Hook which was extremely pretty. Then set sail for the North end of Hook Island in the building South Easterly, a pleasant broad reach with full sails and Lyn enjoying some steering practice.

Manta Ray Bay

All the moorings at Butterfly Bay were taken and after a failed attempt at anchoring in 16 meters depth (I think it was a rock bottom judging by the noise of the anchor dragging), we moved to a mooring in Manta Ray Bay. This is a stunningly beautiful spot though not usually recommended for overnight. With the very small swell it was fine and we had a slightly rolly night but slept well. The rock around the Northern side of Hook Island is stunningly beautiful and with a rock-climber’s eye we were drooling at the variety of possible climbing roots as we set off Southwards. Our destination was Hamilton Island marina, where we would be meeting up with Joe and Belinda with family and friends, who were borrowing a friends Lagoon 40 catamaran for a week. On the way we stopped off at Peter’s Bay, which we had all to ourselves. We had an explore up a dry river bed, followed by a skinny dip off the rocks and warming ourselves on the hot rocks after – lovely.

Then it was onwards to Hamilton Island. More on that next blog.