The beginning of the masterpiece

17 September 2014

We are currently en-route to Brampton Island from Scawfell Island, motoring in very little wind, but beautiful sunny weather. In the end we only spent the one day at Middle Percy because we got itchy feet – always another island to see! We greatly enjoyed the hospitality of the Homestead and then were lucky enough to get an impromptu invite to Steve’s tree-house on the beach where we had delicious goat stew (freshly shot by Steve) with Tim and Greg and Donny. Greg is an artist who is completing a beautiful carved sculpture totem pole to be erected in front of the club.

Best on show?

Next morning we found a place in the club to hang Lyn’s beautiful JoliFou memento which she had created the previous day. In my somewhat biased opinion, it’s one of the best on show now, and appropriately is placed under a Perrier-Jouet champagne bottle as per used in our boat renaming ceremony. Late morning we departed for Digby Island, a short 20 mile passage.

The run to Digby was very pleasant, square before the wind, full sails, poled out jib in about 15 knots. Digby island is pretty enough with a nice beach and a quiet anchorage, but not quite the grandeur of some of the other islands. Our new friends James and Leah of Mahiti and the schooner Argos were the only other occupants. We had a brief fire on the beach followed by drinks on the beautiful Amal 46 Ketch, Mahiti and were generously gifted some beautiful mackerel fillets from the fish that they had caught during the crossing. We had been less successful, although we did have a fish on the line briefly, but it managed to free itself from the hook whilst we created a huge tangle in the reel (we are hopeless at fishing). Not having launched the dinghy yet at this stage, we had a pretty hectic drunken paddle on the standup boards back to the un-lit JoliFou in the dark.

Next morning Mahiti and JoliFou departed early for the 40 mile trip to Scawfell Island. The South Easter had died and we ended up motoring the entire way, which was mostly quite boring, but also relaxing as the seas were very calm. I did manage to get the Gennaker sail sorted and up for the first time and

Always a Joy

although not enough wind to use it, it is now ready to go. The highlights of the trip were when we arrived at the North East side of Scawfell. Firstly we had some dolphins come and play around the bow, with Lyn snapping photos furiously and Silus barking madly (as he does EVERY time we see dolphins or whales). Best of all was the majestic rock cliffs on the North East shore, which we motored around very close in. This place could be a climbing mecca, we saw so many amazing rock climb possibilities, huge slabs, corners, cracks all on what looks like superb rock.

Refuge Bay at Scawfell is an excellent anchorage in the South Easterly winds, with stunning white beaches below the heights of the land. Is it possible this is even more beautiful than Middle Percy? After the obligatory sundowners on the beach, we had James and Leah and the kids (Ewyn and Hamish) over for dinner, cooking the beautiful mackerel – yum!

The not so glamorous side

Cruising has been described by friends of ours as “working on the boat in beautiful places”. During the trip to Scawfell we discovered a large amount of water in the bilge. Alarm bells!! After the initial panic receded we realized it was fresh water, not salt. A leak in the tank!? Investigation discovered that it was a hole in the piping of the galley sink tap, so our water pump had been diligently spraying 300 liters of water out inside the cupboard under the sink and our bilge pumps had been diligently doing their job, pumping most of it out into the sea, lovely. If we were not motoring we would have heard the pumps and turned off the water pump before losing all of our water. Fortunately we had an entire spare tap on board, including the pipes, so I was able to replace it all remarkably easily (which is usually not the case with boat jobs). Whilst the tools were out Lyn requested that the stove top be repaired too – an entire galley make-over in only about 1 hour! After making water for a while and Lyn pumping and sponging out the water from the places that didn’t get to the bilge, the JoliFou was back at 100%.

The wind had turned to the North, though still light, but with a forecast of 15 knots from the North West that night, we decided to head for the next Island, Brampton only 18 miles away, which has a very good anchorage for Northerly winds.

18 September 2014

Paradise Found

We motored for the first 2 hours then enjoyed a nice reach for the last hour in the building North Westerly. Another amazingly beautiful place, more beautiful than the previous ones? The jury is out, but what seems clear now is that every island has its own charm and beauty. Dinghy Bay is extremely pretty, with rocky shores and pine tree covered hills all around. We launched the dinghy for the first time and managed to get the outboard on with a bit of a struggle before going to the beach for our arrival sunset drink. Popping in at Mahiti on the way back, the kids invited us to dinner (I think Mom and Dad were agreeable too?) and we enjoyed a great night of dinner drinks and chats with our new friends before retiring to JoliFou after cruiser’s midnight (8:30 PM).

Brampton Island has a number of good walking tracks courtesy of the enemy (Parks Board) and we might go for an explore later, unfortunately without Silus. We have had him on the beach here with no problem, but we are not quite outlaw enough to take him into the interior as he may “frighten the indigenous animals so that they get lost”. Clearly our outlaw dog had already irreparably destroyed the ecosystem here because we spotted some turtles that must have been lost and not able to find their home at the adjacent Turtle Bay.

19 September 2014

Ghost Town

Plans changed yesterday due to an un-predicted return of the South East trade winds. After a lovely swim on the beach and scramble/climb up a rock out-crop to enjoy the view, the building wind forced us to up-anchor to get off the lee shore. A pleasant short sail with jib only around the island saw us arrive at the pretty Pelican Bay on the North side. The bay is close to the Brampton Roads which is a shallow coral/sand bottom waterway between Brampton and Carlisle islands. There is a resort here, which has been closed down, but is still in quite good repair. It is quite weird to walk on the beach by the resort and there is a ghost-town feel to it with an air-plane run-way and fully furnished units, but all just a touch past their best.

I was excited to realize that the strong wind and the lagoon-like area of Brampton Roads was a perfect kite-boarding location. James from Mahiti is also a kite boarder so I picked him up in the dinghy and we headed over there with our gear to give it a try. We ended up having a great time in a perfect setting, enjoying an afternoon of perfect kiting, which was totally un-expected.

21 September 2014

Today is 1 month since we left the Pittwater and we will arrive at Airlie later today. A long time for a trip? Actually we arrived at our destination a long time ago. Since our first Island at Lady Musgrave it has felt like we are truly on holiday and not like a journey, except perhaps in the spiritual sense as we relax more and more into the natural beauty we are surrounded with.

I am writing this as we lie at anchorage in refuge bay, Nara inlet, on Hook Island. There is a strong Easterly wind blowing and the boat is still at times, then suddenly jerks to the will of a large bullet of wind. We are right inside the top of the inlet and surrounded by high rock and trees.

A new marketing campaign?

Before departing Brampton Island we went for a long walk with Silus (don’t tell the enemy) mostly in the area of the defunct resort. It is such a strange situation. The resort has been closed down for about 3 years now and most of it is in really quite good shape. The rooms are still fully furnished, with lounges, beds, bar fridges and televisions. There is a gym with exercise machines, weights etc., golf clubs, catamarans on the beach, wetsuits hanging up in the watersports area, tennis courts with nets up looking quite good, a de-salination plant and a huge aircraft runway. A forklift is parked out in the open, slowly rusting away. All of this and the only occupants are kangaroos, no sign of any security or caretaker. Lyn took some good photos of kangaroos on the runway, which we hope to sell to Quantas for thousands of dollars.

Working Remotely

The next destination was Thomas Island, just 18 miles away. We anchored in the bay on the South side near Dead Dog Island (eek) due to the forecast calling for the wind to go North East overnight. Another stunning bay, with just us and Mahiti in residence! It was initially nice and calm, and the Mahiti crew came over for a delicious slow-roasted lamb dinner, embellished by James’s birthday bottle of fine red wine and finished off with Leah’s delicious lemon meringue pie. Who said cruising sailors need to rough it?

Peace at Sunrise

Later, a nasty little Easterly swell started getting into the anchorage. The boats were rocking and rolling like crazy, no real danger but just discomfort and wear and tear on everything that was creaking and groaning as the boat moved. I had a brief sleep, Lyn had none and at 3AM we decided that enough was enough. Raising the anchor in the pitch dark was only slightly assisted by a tiny sliver of rising moon, but it was a hectic time, with the boat pitching and rolling in the waves until we were out of the bay and able to steer with the waves. Lyn went to try and get some much-needed sleep whilst I motored down-wave until we were able to get under the lee of Thomas and later Shaw Island. At first light we found a lovely and completely calm anchorage inside Burning point at the Southern end of Shaw Island – time for a sleep!

Ways to travel to Whitehaven Beach

Around mid-morning we awoke and decided that sleep could wait – exploring needed to happen. We upped anchor and used the strong ebbing tide to sweep us Northwards through Kennedy Sound, marveling at the beauty of Lindeman and Shaw Islands and later the majestic Pentecost Island (another great rock climbing location?). The plan was to go towards Airlie beach but by way of a detour past Whitehaven Beach. Whitehaven is everything we have heard and read about, a glorious long glistening white beach with navigable depth almost to the sand. The Southern end was quite crowded with yachts and motor yachts, not really our cup of tea. We sailed with jib only slowly down the full length of the beach, spotting two helicopters on the beach and one wedding. Yes indeed, it seems the enemy allows you to land your helicopter on the beach, but a little dog would destroy the environment!

No dog on this paddle board!

Arriving at the gorgeous Hill Inlet area we decided to anchor just off the beach and have lunch there. Lyn snuck Silus ashore on the standup board and fortunately there were no objections from the few people on the beach there. I hope we have not irreparably destroyed the place? There were a few boats right inside Hill Inlet, which is a sandy area that dries at low tide. I am quite keen to return and do that with the JoliFou, and also have a kite off the beach there next time it’s windy enough. We will no doubt return here soon, but we needed to find a quiet anchorage sheltered from the building Easterly for the night, so we set sail for Hook passage and onwards to Nara Inlet.

A blogger at work

Later

As we post this, we have just arrived in Airlie Beach at Abel Point Marina, looking forward to a little bit of luxury. Showers, laundry, get rid of the rubbish, spray the boat down with fresh water, collect stuff we’ve had delivered to the yacht club. Stock up on food and drink, most urgently we have run out of beer and coffee! Airlie looks like a charming place, but I will post more on that later when I’ve had a chance to look around more.

10 September 2014

As I write this it is 3AM, a full moon shines down on a friendly sea and Lady Musgrave island light bears 345 at 10 miles. The Jolifou is at peace, Lyn and Silus sleep down below and we gently bob to the rhythm of nature’s will. We are currently traveling at 1 knot, nearing the end of the slowest planned crossing ever.

A great place for kiting

Our stay in Bundaberg was much longer than planned as we awaited delivery of a new prop hub. The stay was sweetened considerably by the generous loan of a car by our new friend Jarrod, which enabled us to do some shopping, stock up on food and alcohol and I was even able to get out to Elliot Heads for a kite-surf (a great spot for it). The enforced delay also meant we could catch up with Wendy and Rob of Aja who otherwise would have been out of town.

After 4 days on the hardstand it was wonderful to be floating again this afternoon. With a forecast of nice moderate Easterlies for the night, becoming adverse Northerlies the next day, we were left with a quandary for our planned trip to Lady Musgrave. The distance is 50 nautical miles which, at our normal cruising speed of about 7 knots, we would do in 7 hours. You certainly don’t want to attempt entering the narrow un-lit reef pass at night, even with a full moon. Rather than risk having to motor for a long time against the wind the next day, we decided to go while the going was good, but sail really slowly so that we arrive in daylight. Another factor in the decision was that it would be a beautiful night to be at sea and we would enjoy a stunning sunset and moonrise.

Sunset on the way to Lady Musgrave Island

Which brings me to why we are currently doing just 1 knot. It was too hard to sail slow, making for an uncomfortable roll, so we went a little faster at about 5 knots, reaching with just a headsail. Now, within sight of the island we have hove to, which is basically the yacht equivalent of stopping without anchoring. You back the mostly furled headsail (or a small part of it) and sheet the mainsail (3^rd reef at the moment) on hard, helm all the way over and the boat balances at 45 degrees to the wind and waves, drifting slowly forwards and sideways with a relatively comfortable motion over the waves. This is often used as a defense strategy in gales and big seas as the boat tends to ride the waves well like this. It’s the first time we’ve done it on Jolifou and so far I’m very pleased with the result.

11 September 2014

The cay at Lady Musgrave Island

After a trip that gave us a stunning sunset, sunrise, full moon rise and set and whale sightings, the highlight for Lyn was the next morning when Silus did a poo on deck for the first time ever!?? This is a significant event in our efforts to turn him into a boat dog, as it takes a lot of adjusting for a dog to do this and is obviously important when you plan on spending many days at sea. The old dog is learning new tricks!

We timed our arrival at Lady Musgrave for the high tide and entered through the pass at about 9AM, which means we took about 17 hours to do 50 nautical miles = average speed of about 3 knots. The reef pass was pretty straight-forward with the sun a little up and the Maui Jim polarized sunnies on, it was very clear where the depth and shallow coral heads were. Lyn was delighted to be greeted by two huge green turtles as we entered the lagoon.

The turtles leading us into the lagoon at LMI

After an initial failed attempt, the anchor set well and we were settled in one of the most beautiful locations on this planet.

Lady Musgrave Island is really mostly just a large surrounding coral reef with a lagoon in the middle. On the North West side there is a small sand and coral cay with some vegetation, this being the only part that remains dry in high tides. The surrounding reef breaks the waves from the open ocean, but at high spring tide the reef is below sea level and there can be wave action entering the lagoon. The guide says

it is a place best visited at neap tides and calm weather, certainly you do not want to be trapped inside the lagoon on a stormy night at spring tides because if your anchor drags you always will land up on the sharp reef and you would never want to try to get out of the lagoon dodging coral bommies in the dark. As mentioned above there is a full moon at the moment, so it is indeed spring tides.

Lagoon reef pass

The weather is calm and the swell small, however, as per the forecast, and although we get a little bit of surge at high tide at low tide it is the calmest anchorage you could wish for.

The beauty of this place is absolutely stunning. The water is clear and a mixture of shades of azure blue, green and yellow lie all around as you soak in the expansive 360 degree vistas. In the distance the waves thunder on the surrounding reef and closer by lies the pretty little cay, with white sand beaches and green trees. The lagoon is not deep everywhere, there are coral bommies and sections of reef scattered around, which dry at low tide and provide some interesting snorkeling.

Yesterday we caught up with a little sleep before enjoying some snorkeling in the vicinity of the boat. Lyn and Silus took the stand-up board for a paddle to the other side of the lagoon and back, spotting a huge ray on the way.

Exploring the Reef

Today we took Silus to the beach on the cay and had a look around. The surrounding beach is beautiful and the interior is a wonderland of trees and birds. In the afternoon we paddled along the edge of the fringing reef, soaking up the beauty of the coral gardens. A new friend Craig, from a catamaran called Ocean Star came around for sun-downers.

14 September 2014

We are now anchored in West Bay, Middle Percy Island. Believe it or not, this place actually tops Lady Musgrave! We left Lady Musgrave when the South Easter came through at about 9 AM. Whales outside the reef pass bid us a fond farewell to this special place and then it was sails up and motor off. This was our best passage so far with 12 to 18 knots of down-wind breeze all the way. Jib poled out to windward or leeward and no need for the annoying sound of the engine. We saw many whales, breaching and jumping out of the water, not too close though! The trip was punctuated by passing by the beautiful islands of the Capricornia group and later other islands such as Tweed and High Peak. We hardly saw another vessel the whole way, just enjoyed our own ocean of champagne sailing.

Hope we don’t hit!

We arrived the following day at the Percy Isles. Rounding Hixson point we marveled at the beauty of the rocks and sea cliffs, then were greeted by the stunning West Bay where we anchored in really quite close to the beautiful white beach. West Bay is a small bay with a white sand beach between rocks on either side. No coral, just nice sand. There are palm trees at the top of the beach and in the middle is the charming and quirky “Percy Isles Yacht Club” shack. The “club” is an un-manned A-frame shack adorned everywhere with the names and memorabilia of the yachts that have visited.

The yacht club on Percy Island

Memorabilia from past yachts visits

A big plus of this place is that Silus was able to legally go ashore which is unfortunately a rarity in the nanny state where the government feels that everything needs to be a national park that must be protected from little dogs. I’ve never seen him run so fast as when we let him free on that pristine white beach. A spontaneous gathering of the crews of the 6 or 7 yachts at anchor developed on the beach with drinks and snacks appearing miraculously.

View of the bay from the yacht club

After a long, much-needed sleep, this morning we went exploring along the rocky coast-line South of the bay. The rock is amazing, with quite a few good looking climbing possibilities (for our rock-climbing friends). We were wearing thongs so despite the temptation we decided that it was best to be safe and didn’t bite, but we may yet go back with the climbing gear. We came across a beautiful white sand beach between the rocks and couldn’t resist a skinny dip!

Silus’s nemesis ‘The Goat!’

Further on we saw one of the resident goats, which Silus had to chase of course. We climbed some really steep sand dunes to the top and then looped back through the forest at the top of the cliffs. I think the legs will feel it later!

The pristine beach

This afternoon we are doing the walk up to the home-stead where we hope to buy fresh fruit and veg and honey which they make locally. We are told that you can get Telstra connection up there, so we are hoping to be able to post this blog if possible (we haven’t had connection for some days now).

Our plan was to spend just the one day here, but we may well extend a bit because I can’t imagine the National Park islands to the North being better than this.

Silus and Lyn on the rocks on Percy Island

It’s been somewhat a story of delays. To some extent this is the nature of cruising sailing as you are heavily dependent on the weather, especially if you want a comfortable trip! Our departure from the Pittwater was delayed due to Lyn having a bout of the flu plus some bad weather.

Roughing it out of Newcastle

As planned our first trip was just a short hop up to Newcastle where our good friends Joe and Belinda own the Mid Coast Marine boatyard and we took the boat out to do a few maintenance tasks. We were supposed to be there for just a day or two, but the weather had other ideas with the east coast low keeping us pinned in the Newcastle corner for almost a week. Anyway plenty of time to do the tasks and catch up with our friends.
We eventually left Newcastle in a not entirely perfect weather situation of strong South Easterly wind and huge swell. The going was quite rough, not what Lyn had hoped for on our first overnight trip! Bruce had to hand-steer for a very long time and had an entirely sleepless night after we noticed that two of our mast stays (D2 stays) had come unthreaded and were swinging in the breeze (and bashing against the mast). The next morning conditions had smoothed up a bit and Bruce was able to go up the mast and re-secure the stays (fortunately they are not essential for keeping the mast up!). In light of a forecast for even stronger winds and bigger swell overnight, we elected to stop in at Coffs Harbour.

Coffs entrance the next day

The tallest mast in the marina!

Silus and Bruce off watch

Radioing Coffs Marine Rescue for advice on the harbour entrance in the big swell, we were assured that it was fine. In the middle of the entrance this huge feathering wave appeared out of no-where and Bruce turned the boat as fast as he could to avoid being taken by it! Got washed sideways, rolling like crazy before being able to turn in again, chased by another set of waves breaking down the breakwater! Scary stuff, Lyn says it’s the most frightening experience she has ever had. Managed to get the boat safely docked in the marina and went for a much-needed drink!
We were again delayed in Coffs for a couple of days as there was no way we were venturing out of the marina until the swell had died. Not such a hardship as Coffs is an awesomely beautiful place. We departed on the back of a dying swell and a beautiful moderate Southerly wind, enjoying a day of champagne downwind sailing. The wind faded that night so we motor-sailed through the night and the next morning. We were now off North Stradbroke island and later Morten Island, motoring in almost flat calm, sunny with numerous dolphin and whale sightings along gorgeous coastline.

Whales off Morten Island

Dolphin escort

Around midday the wind started building from the North and we sailed and later motored from Cape Morten to our destination of Mooloolaba. The last 3 hours were pretty hectic with strong wind against the out-going tide making for rough conditions, plus some moments of stress wondering whether a zig-zagging container ship intended running us over.

Looking North from Mooloolaba

Mooloolaba is a beautiful spot and we enjoyed 2 nights there waiting for the wind to turn South once more. We were now sailing in companionship with Peter from Haven 111, whom we had met in Coffs and realised we were travelling at a very similar speed. The plan was to sail outside Fraser island and stop at Lady Musgrove island. After a great day of windy downwind sailing we had a look at the Wide Bay bar entrance and decided that it would be okay to enter the Sandy Straights (inside Fraser island), so the plan changed and we spent the night anchored at White Cliffs, half way throught the Sandy Straights.

Western Fraser Island

The next morning we set off for Bundaberg, doing a bit of a loop in Hervey bay in search of whales, which are supposed to be prolific in this area. Must have been a bad day because we saw none, but did greatly enjoy the beauty of the western coast of Fraser island. The wind faded and we were motoring towards Bundaberg when suddenly we lost drive. The engine was revving but we weren’t going anywhere! Bruce stuck his head in the water with a face mask and confirmed that the prop was still there, but something was wrong with the connection between engine and propeller. Fortunately the wind had filled in from the North East and we were able to sail into Bundaberg and onto a marina dock. Thank goodness this happened where it did!

Bundaberg lift out

So, we are now in Bundaberg, out of the water at the boatyard and awaiting deliver of a new propeller hub, which turned out to be the culprit. This is not such a bad outcome and will only cost us a few days and a few (quite a few) dollars, but is better than a lot of other things that could have caused this problem. We have been fortunate to be loaned  a car here by a new friend so will enjoy the weekend seeing the sights of Bundaberg and maybe getting in a bit of kite surfing. We hope to leave on Tuesday or Wednesday for Lady Musgrove perhaps? Who knows?

So this is cruising sailing:-

• Moments of absolute beauty, joy and happiness.
• Moments of sheer terror, moments of stress.
• Much of this happening in a state of dreaminess caused by lack of sleep.
• Always an adventure!